Édith Piaf’s “La Vie en Rose” wafts gently through rustic market stalls on a crisp, bright autumn day played by a saxophone and violin. Her chanson d’amour, “Life in Happy Hues”, became her post-World War II signature piece and is a French hymn to joie de vivre. Its lyrics rise in smooth columns to caress the soul.

The scene could easily be the ancient 1615 weekly Parisian farmers’ markets in Primeur du Marias in the third arrondissement.

But it is in Kings Cross. With over 56 stalls creating more colour than lifesaver lollies, the heritage-listed Fitzroy Gardens offers fresh and organic food items and hand-made items for up to 3,000 visitors who flock there on Saturdays. Locals loaf, linger and flâneur from its armorial-crested seats, protected by the majestic parapluie of 120-year old fig trees and their cathedral-like flying buttress roots.

The boutique ambiance is intoxicating.

This is a bazaar of fine, exotic and gourmet items to browse, peruse, taste and see.

Consider this mezze plate:

Syrian Kibbeh (finely-ground meat and nuts); La Planchettes Berbigier (a little board) of fresh, restaurant-quality French cheeses; organic meats; bread; homemade beeswax food wraps infused with pre-washed 100% cotton in beeswax hand-made by Josh and Rob in Roseberry; organic and biodynamic cumquats, milk, and eggs whose free-range chickens are gently guarded by fluffy Mareema dogs, a breed used since Roman times; fresh flowers; Alex’s rich, heady, freshly-roasted coffee; Turkish gozleme; Hammy Tang’s Asian food; Sofrito paella by Head Chef, Andy Thompson; corn fritters; Mexican quaesadillas; cold-pressed, preservative-free, 100% gingered apple juice by Allie; Babka, an East European, New York-style cinnamon cake topped with streusel and laden with charm made by Marque Owen in his kitchen; fresh leafy local fruit and vegetables from the stallholder’s Hemps Creek farm.

Significantly, stallholder, Saucissons Australia, won a prestigious Silver Medal at the June 2018 Mondial Rabelais de Saucisson, the first saucisson world cup, in Vancosc, Southern France.  Saucisson is a thick, dry, cured French sausage.  It’s made here by Jean-Marc Amar, a former French executive chef. He learned the art from relatives whilst growing up in France’s Languedoc (southern) region. His saucisson is described by prestigious Australian Gourmet Traveller as “the most authentic saucisson in the country”.

Eaten with bread, cheese and a glass of wine, it’s is a slow-aged, free-range, air-dried pork sausage. It’s a staple of French food culture and just as important to French culture as bread, wine and cheese. He supplies Sydney and Melbourne restaurants; Bistro Thierry, L’Etoile, La Brasserie, Tabou and Tastevin.

He offers various types of saucisson aged based on maturation periods: Saucise seche, a traditional, thinner buttery, u-shaped sausage and a 100-day aged saucisson with more moisture and stronger flavor.

They all come with their authentic butcher’s twine.

He also makes “Toulouse” sausages (kept by James under the wooden counter), vacuum-sealed and infused with wine and garlic and ideal for making traditional cassoulet (a rich, meat casserole/stew).

Rana Ashrat, Market Manager, says “I really enjoy the atmosphere, outdoor location and meeting new people here. The ten-year old markets have been successful because of their variety, locality and enthusiastic stallholders.”

They are now expanding to include the Sunday markets

By Andrew Woodhouse, Heritage Solutions

Food Markets Kings Cross

Fitzroy Gardens, Macleay Street, Kings Cross, near El Alamein fountain

Saturdays 8am to 2pm

www.organicfoodmarkets.com.au